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Influenza

Starting in mid-November, everybody in Japan begins to wear a mask – just in case. Nagoya’s subway looks like a scene from a cheesy post-apocalyptic movie, everyone wearing a mask, everyone staring at their portable gaming consoles. Despite the fact that the whole Japanese race turns into a wedding version of Darth Vader, everybody in Japan seems to get sick sooner or later. At Yale, I rarely see people wearing masks, and if I do, I usually step on the other side of the street. They must be really sick! I tend to think. I am not a doctor to tell you why the Japanese, at least in my experience, tend to turn sicker despite the precautionary measures they take. One reason might be their fruit-less diet – which comes as no surprise considering the fact that one piece of banana costs $2.50, an apple $4, and an orange $3.5. Wouldn’t you skip your five-pieces-of-fruit-a-day, too? Moreover, there are no flu shots. At least not at Nanzan. At Yale, getting a flu shot is the easiest thing ever. You go to Commons, PINCH, and there you are! Vaccinated! And so, I am more than surprised that in such a virus-conscious country, getting any form of flu vaccination is so inaccessible.

Well, long story made short, two days ago, I got sick, too. Starting in early January, our IJ600 class lost a student a day due to diseases of all sorts. On Wednesday, we lost our teacher. On Friday, IJ 600 lost me. I woke up that morning feeling like P Diddy. I called Nanzan, trying to figure out what do with my newly acquired disease. After five minutes of Japanese-like introductions – “it’s so nice to hear from!”; “you never stop at our office”; “I haven’t seen you for so long!” I finally got to the point. I’m sweating, I have fever, my head hurts. What should I do? The Nanzan lady: “Oh, in order to get excused absence, you will have to print out form 1024xxxx, get it signed by your doctor, teacher and advisor…” I don’t care about excused absence! But of course, the first thing a Japanese person thinks of when it comes to procedures are the rules that one has to follow. Well, I just wanted to get better, so finally I got the name of the best hospital in the hood.

I somehow managed to drag myself out of the bed. It was pleasant to realize that Kitamura-Hospital was in fact a block away from my house, which is one cool thing about a nation that’s slowly turning into a retirement community: there are clinics and hospitals everywhere. At the hospital, I was a bit struck by the fact that the average age of all the patients in the waiting room was close to 100 years. Nevertheless, before I could ponder my ephemeral youth, I was given a mask and a thermometer. When the nurse discovered that my fever was reaching the boiling point, she escorted me to a “very very sick person” room. There I had to wait for further instructions. I usually don’t mind waiting, but I do mind when I am being made to wait in a freezing room for an hour while having a high fever….Finally, the doctor came and started shouting at me, which is usually what the Japanese people do to increase their chances of being understood by a foreign person. I never really grasped the rationale, though. Let’s use more complicated language and SHOUT it. That’s the way to do it. Doctor Kitamura told me to lie down; he took out a super long stick and ruthlessly stuck it in my nose. It was the strangest thing that ever happened to my body. He told me to wait for ten minutes.

Forty-five minutes later, Doctor Kitamura came to tell me I have influenza. He didn’t really offer any recommendations as to what I should do to get better. Instead, he gave me a set of instructions of what I should do in order not to infect other people. Of course, Japan does not want a bunch of infectious foreigners running around spreading viruses. He told me to wait for medication. I asked him whether he could tell me what kind of pills he was going to prescribe, as I’m allergic to antibiotics. He said not to worry…

Thirty minutes later, an older nurse came. (At that point, my body temperature was three times the room temperature).

Warning: if you are a high-brow reader, please skip this paragraph. Everybody else just keep reading.

The nurse started to explain what to do with different kinds of pills in broken English. I told her that Japanese was just fine. She gave me three kinds of pills – one against common cold, one against influenza, and one that I had no idea. I asked the nurse what the third pill was about. It was too awkward for her to explain in Japanese, so she, as expected, switched into English again. Blushed and rosy, the old nurse-lady said in a charming Japanese accent: “Keep it cool in your fridge, then put it into your anus.” What?! Really?! Please, don’t tell me I’m being prescribed suppository!? In disbelief, I started making strange faces. At that point, I remembered the most traumatic experience of my childhood- the suppositories. I could not believe I was supposed to relive the trauma again. I called my Japanese friends, only to discover that allegedly, suppositories are the most common form of medicine in Japan. What?! Really?! Why?! I started feeling sicker than before. The first thing, I did when I got home was to google-wikify-yahoo-answer suppository: “suppository-what’s-the-point,” ran my Internet search. I found the best suppository-related thread on yahoo answers – advantage: quick release; disadvantage: you’re sticking a foreign object into your…

Despite the harrowing experience of being sick in Japan, I think I have learned many new things. Most importantly, I have learned about the samurai principle in Japanese medicine. I have learned the Japanese version of “fake-it-till-you-make.” The best way to get better is to make yourself worse. When you have fever, go freeze yourself in a limited-edition patient room. Does your nose feel uncomfortable? Just wait till we’ll put a long object through it. Oh, and not to forget, what about sticking another foreign object into your…

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Sato-kun (さとくん) Does Europe




A few days ago, I read an article in the Economist about the Chinese Grand Tour of Europe. In describing an increasingly popular trend among Chinese tourists, the author artfully portrayed the values and beliefs of China’s rising middle class. For the past two weeks, I have been taking care of my Japanese friend, Sato-kun, who came to visit. Traveling side by side with Satokun, observing his reactions and witnessing his behavior abroad, allowed me to uncover yet another layer of the Japanese mind. And so just like the author of “A new Grand Tour,” I shall try to make a few comments on the Japanese values and beliefs that I observed when Sato-kun did Europe.


First of all – technology is the alpha&omega in a life of a young Japanese person, and that is to the extent when it ceases to serve to facilitate communication and becomes an end of its own. Sato-kun came to Prague with two smartphones – an iphone and a sony-ericsson, paying over $25 a day to stay online even when abroad. The first thing he wanted to do was to a buy a Czech pre-paid phone, just for kicks. He took pictures of his “funny” new phone with both of his smartphones and the newest model of Cannon’s digital camera. He posted the pictures on Twitter immediately, sharing the phone’s details with his “followers.” The pictures were in 3D. He bought a special pair of gloves so that he can use the touch screen even in arctic temperatures. I got a bit annoyed by the fact that I learned more about Satokun’s impressions of Prague from his facebook wall than from Satokun himself, and so I told him that in Europe, it is considered fairly rude to play with one’s phone while spending time witha REAL person. He just smiled the way only a Japanese person can and kept twittering.

The Japanese love of technology is not limited to personal gadgets. During the rare moments when I got to have a conversation with Satokun, we mostly talked about modes of transportation – comparing the European trains and subway to that of Japan, discussing cars, etc. To be completely honest, I don’t really care much for cars and trains and that kind of stuff, but with Satokun I was happy I got to have some kind of REAL conversation, so I went with the flow. Often, Satokun would completely skip a unique UNESCO monument, only to take a picture of a passing streetcar, that he considered very “retro.” And based on his facebook and twitter comments, it seems that his Japanese friends also shared his passion for technology of any kind. A few days ago, Satokun asked me if we could visit a local car dealer’s shop, and so we did. I wished he had just kept twittering.

Another interesting feature that I have observed is Satokun’s desire to be distinguished from other Asians who visit Europe. He makes constant comments about groups of “tacky” Chinese and “loud” Koreans. The first thing he says after he introduces himself in broken English is “I’m from J-A-P-A-N.” He learned a few Czech words, such as thank you and goodbye, but stopped using them immediately after I told him that people probably think he’s Vietnamese as there’s a significant Czech-speaking Vietnamese community. When I told him that in Japan people confuse me for an American all the time and asked him why cares so much to be distinguished as “Japanese,” he just smiled the way only a Japanese person can and kept ignoring my question.

Furthermore, traveling with Satokun made me realize the full extent of Japanese “gaman” mindset, the value of patience and self-control. I took Satokun to see Madame Butterfly at the State Opera, and a Strauss concert at the Municipal House; he fell asleep at both events. First, I thought he was still jet-lagged but then I asked him whether he even likes classical music, after which he just smiled. Without ever sharing his preferences, he simply followed my plan with patience and self-discipline. At my house he ate loads of sausages and drank gallons of beer with my dad, and we so all thought that he was really enjoying himself. Too bad, the next day I learned (from his facebook) that German food gave him stomach ache. Ouch!

Japan’s not just about technology and self-control, it’s also about “人間関係“ – the so valued human relationships, and the compassion for others. I consider Satokun to be fairly “westernized” in the way he can sometimes put his own interest above others. Yet, he’s still much more considerate of other beings than boys of his age in Europe and America. I took him to see a hit exhibition of “Decadent Art” at the National Gallery. It was a wonderful collection of Robert Mapplethorpe’s most scandalous (and famous) photographs. When I asked Satokun what he thought about the art, he frowned and said he had felt sorry for the old ladies who guarded the exhibition halls. I asked him why, to which he responded: “At their age, they must be greatly confused by ugly pictures of naked bodies.” All of sudden, it was less about my or Satokun’s impression of the “great” art and more about the feelings of the gallery staff. First, I reacted aggressively, thinking I had been spending time with an illiterate, casting pearls to swine’s. But then I realized that the old ladies, indeed, must have been kind of confused…

Satokun left two days ago to spend the rest of his Grand tour in Vienna with my friend Adrian. I have checked his twitter and it seems that he’s having a swell time, taking many pictures with his fancy camera, and staying away from German food. My friend Adrian said that he tried to take Satokun to an art gallery but the Ja-pa-nee-su boy was too busy taking pictures of the cars passing in front of the museum. He took the pictures with his new smartphone that he bought in Austria. I got a bit upset and skyped him, wondering whether he deemed it really necessary to waste his time in Vienna with my art-loving friend by getting new phones and taking pictures of cars. But he just kept smiling.

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pre-Xmas in Japan